Back from the Arctic

Completed a fantastic 400-mile journey down the Noatak River all of it north of the Arctic Circle in Alaska. My companions Sue Plankis, Karen Kelley and Zoe Kesselring were stellar explorers and the trip passed smoothly without a single mishap. Before I had left Alaska I had seen 22 grizzly bears including 10 on the Noatak. But also caribou, moose, dall sheep, musk-ox, lynx, wolves, foxes, porcupines and even one wolverine (which was my first) plus many interesting birds. Rapids were mild and frequent, weather was cloudy but dry, mosquitoes were abundant, scenery spectacular including a flight in that was perhaps the most incredible bush flight ever (and I have likely over a thousand hours or more on floats). Anyway, more later, because I leave at 5:30 am tomorrow for a week in the BWCA with a crew of nine. Looking forward to the warm water, bugless skies and fun … Continue reading

NOATAK RIVER ARCTIC ALASKA

I leave tomorrow on a small expedition down the Noatak River north of the Arctic Circle in Alaska. Our route is just over 400 miles from the Gates of the Arctic National Park in the Brooks Range to the Inuit village of Noatak — almost on an estuary of the Bering Sea. We have 15 nights on the river, which will make our run one of the fastest ever recorded. Not because I like to go fast, but just to squeeze the trip in the time we have allotted. Joining me will be my niece Karen Kelley, engineer and veteran of three other arctic trips with me in Nunavut and the Northwest Territories of Canada; Sue Plankis, friend, naturalist and canoeist extraordinaire; and my youngest daughter Zoe, a strong young woman with a heart of gold. That’s right, three women and me. Does that sound like a book title? I … Continue reading

Recap of the Peculiar 2013 Ice Out

 

 

 

The final 2013 ice out dates have been recorded for the lakes in the BWCA. For many, even those that have reliable records back over 50 years this was a record late break-up. For others, this was the latest break-up since 1950. Either way it was an extraordinary spring especially coming on the heels of 2012 which saw some of the earliest ice-free dates ever recorded. Here are some specific ice out dates this spring. Saganaga 5/19, Vermilion 5/17, Knife 5/16, Sawbill 5/15, Moose 5/14 . These dates were over two weeks later than the norm and over a month later than last spring.

With high temperature records being broken early this summer from arctic Alaska to the desert Southwest, how was it that Quetico-Superior had such a cold spring, and does this year’s spring weather refute the theory of global warming? Climatologists will be the first … Continue reading

Lake Superior’s Susie Islands

Susie_Islands_Paddle_RouteBack from Lake Superior’s Susie Islands. I had a great weekend plying these sacred and spectacular islands at the edge of the Canadian border. Four years ago as part of a centennial celebration of Quetico Provincial Park and Superior National Forest I joined eight others on a voyage in a 26-foot North Canoe from the stockade at Grand Portage to Fort William in Thunder Bay. That route passed through the Susie Islands. I was awestruck by their beauty. At that time the lake was angry with huge swells and water crashing against cliff faces (and  two of our paddlers vomiting over the gunwales as green as lima beans and smelly sick). It was not a time to linger, but I vowed that some day I would return. My good friend, Dick Pula, has trusted friends in the Grand Portage First Nation band and he secured permission this spring for … Continue reading

Minnehaha Creek

With all the rain this June, Minnehaha Creek is running like it hasn’t for years. It is a very fun canoe tour situated in the midst of the Twin Cities. You can check the level and if  150 cfs 0f water or more is being released from the lake you will have plenty of water for a tandem canoe, 100cfs for a solo. I came down last Sunday morning and it was beautiful. Of course, be prepared for trains, planes and automobiles and some urban flotsam and not always of a nautical origin. Shopping carts, baby strollers, whiskey bottles — they’re all part of the trip. I once counted and passed under sixty bridge decks from Lake Minnetonka to the Falls.  When water levels approach 300cfs some of these bridges can be a tight squeeze so be careful at high levels. Also, watch for strainers and fallen trees especially … Continue reading

The Big Fork

Just returned from 58 miles on the Big Fork River in northern Minnesota. It was a good trip with, considering this spring, exceptional weather. The Big Fork weaves through the plain that was once the lake bed of Glacial Lake Agassiz. That said it is not a very lively river. However, our trip did begin just upstream Little American Falls which, at the high water we were paddling, formed a nasty ledge that would be even difficult to line. We made a short portage. Just past our take-out was Grand Falls a similar drop. It was maybe not as sharp, but very bumpy. I would not attempt it in a canoe. In between we had a few riffles and one small rapid but mostly thick bush and a meandering slow river. The water was peat brown and the banks steep and slippery. If it sounds like a mediocre Minnesota canoe … Continue reading

With the ice off the border lakes and the summer paddling season underway, it is a great time to refine some camping strategies.

One of the rules commonly broken in the Boundary Waters Wilderness is the prohibition of burning paper, plastic or foil in campfires.  The USFS has done research  on the burning of plastic and foil and has discovered that it sometimes releases toxic fumes far in excess of the burning of natural campfire wood. Interestingly, just burning natural wood releases some nasty fumes, but it must be remembered that people don’t sit in the smoke and breathe deep. The Forest Service also recommends small campfires. These small fires often do not reach a temperature or a duration of temperature high enough to complete the combustion of plastics and foils. This can leave globs of melted plastic and foil which is not only unsightly but hazardous to the next camper … Continue reading

Campcraft Tip

Back from 5 nights in the BWCA co-leading a bird ecology class with Sue Plankis. I had a chance to try out my new Cooke Custom Sewing small barrel pack. Instead of a small blue barrel I use a 7-gallon “paint bucket” with a gamma lid. It fits perfectly and inside the pail I have my complete kitchen. The campers loved the simplicity and cleanliness of this slick system and the bucket carries very easily in the CCS harness. These larger “paint buckets” are available at home brewery retail stores for less than ten bucks. Watertight gamma seals can be bought for about $8 at Home Depot or online at usplastics.com. Instead of a kitchen, this pail/pack combo could also make for an excellent small rodent-proof, bear-resistant, grub pack.

We had a very successful class. A great group. Excellent weather and close to 60 species of birds. More on … Continue reading

Still Room Memorial Day Weekend Bird Trip

There are still at least two spots, maybe three, open on the Uncommon Seminars LLC Bird Ecology of the Northern Forest class/trip this coming Memorial Day Weekend. Sue Plankis is doing research on owls, as that was a special request of one of the participants. We hope to get some good views of  Saw Whet and Barred Owls and maybe more. The moon will be full which will be great for owl viewing. With the late spring we should be ahead of leaf-out up there, and also ahead of the spring bug season. Everything is coming together for an outstanding weekend of camping, paddling and birding. The first night we stay at the Sawbill campground at the end of the Sawbill Trail. People can work on … Continue reading

Big Fork River Trip Paddlers Welcome

June 7-10

Big Fork-Big Falls 85 miles so far: Sue Plankis Dave Burkhart Rob Kesselring are in We have space for 8 anyone is welcomed up to a maximum total group size of 8 I have applied for a DNR grant for this trip, and if approved, it will cover half of our travel/shuttle/food costs. This a a total non-profit venture to help collect some birding data and to explore a river that will likely be new to all of us. Even if we don’t get the grant, expenses will be modest, mostly just the drive up there. This is not exactly a Hawaiian vacation. On the recommendation of Tim Eaton, we are working with River North Outfitters for shuttle and, if needed, bunkhouse and canoe rental. Sue is experienced in Citizen Science through the Minnesota Breeding Bird Atlas and will help the group gather data along the way down the river. A … Continue reading