Just returned from 58 miles on the Big Fork River in northern Minnesota. It was a good trip with, considering this spring, exceptional weather. The Big Fork weaves through the plain that was once the lake bed of Glacial Lake Agassiz. That said it is not a very lively river. However, our trip did begin just upstream Little American Falls which, at the high water we were paddling, formed a nasty ledge that would be even difficult to line. We made a short portage. Just past our take-out was Grand Falls a similar drop. It was maybe not as sharp, but very bumpy. I would not attempt it in a canoe. In between we had a few riffles and one small rapid but mostly thick bush and a meandering slow river. The water was peat brown and the banks steep and slippery. If it sounds like a mediocre Minnesota canoe river I think you would be about right. Although it is okay to camp anywhere along the river the only decent spots we saw were state park designated sites and they were few and far between. I will also warn you that the water available at Johnson’s Landing consisted of a rusty pipe and a dribble. I have not seen a less robust spring, even on the Rio Grande.
Mosquito levels approached the sub-arctic, but the river was wide enough that you could escape their onslaught by staying in the main channel. We saw deer, otters, beaver and many interesting birds including a Cinnamon Teal, a quite unusual sighting. Watching a pair of Trumpeter Swans slap the water on take-off was another trip highlight. I liked falling asleep to the winnowing of jack snipe that will be unforgettable.
The best part of my trip were my three companions, Sue Plankis, Dave Burkhart and Tim Eaton. Strong paddlers and good campers all. We slept in a CCS Lean, paddled my old Dagger Venture and an Old Town Wood Canvas that Tim had rebuilt. Sue did some important scientific research for the State Breeding Bird Atlas and brought an extraordinary turkey chili for our first dinner Tim continued that fine start by cooking gourmet meals on-trail usually over his Little-Bug twig stove. Dave and I just relaxed and enjoyed the sun and peaceful setting of the river far from the madding crowds.
Loved the trip but will not return soon.